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Great deal Live video feed for you to view the wood. Payments must be received with in 24 hours after invoiced. We will hold wood thats been paid for. There is no other option. mario
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This is where the plate joining magic happens! I thicknessed both tops, the Katz and cedar, to .115 of an inch. I cooked the Katz a second time at that thickness. Next, I ran the glue edges through my jointer to ensure there would be no gaps at the glue seam. I brought the back plates down to .085 and trued up the gluing edges. I use a specially constructed jig for the gluing, with pieces of parchment paper above and below the glue joint. To load the jig, I glue the edges and rub them together. Then, I place the parchment paper underneath and tighten the wheels to the right. The wheels are "eccentric," which means that their hole centers are drilled about 1/8 inch off center. That means that I can load the pieces in with the shorter wheel edge against the pieces. As I turn the wheel, it tightens the glue edge. I place clamps on a thin piece of oak on top of the glue seam so it can't pop up. Then, I tighten the wheels, screwing them down snug. A half hour later, I reverse the process, first loosening the wheels and then the clamps. I do this with the tops and the backs.
Ya? What happened?
Me take a sabbatical for a while and everything changes...took me a while to figure out how to navigate dis here NEW site.
Oh well ...it sure is looking good though. Yes very slick indeed.
Seems me "Official Padma" pages been relegated to the archives...probably best.
But keep holding your breath a few more months for the eminent resurrection of the all New and Improved Padma and
him ALL NEW WORKSHOP and him builds and him B.S.
Is true! Me shall be back. But not today.
Now is the time (if you haven't already done so) to cut out the top. I like to make mine about 1/8" oversize. I run a small washer around the plantilla with my pencil in the washer hole.
Your rosette inlay should be level with the top and about 2 mm deep. If you've left an empty space in the rosette channel you will be able to measure this. Thin the top forom the upper side until the rosette is no more than 1 mm deep. I use my thickness sander taking very fine (.05 mm) passes. I do the last bit by hand using a block and 120 grit sand paper so that the top is free of the heavier sc ratches left by the thickness sander. When your done, you can fill the space in the rosette channel with a patch of scrap spruce.
The top can now be turned over and brought to its final thickness from the under side. The guitar in the Courtnall plan is made from cedar, however, we are working with spruce so it will need to be made a little thinner in order to achieve the same level of response. I've done some analysis on the spruce (Mario tells me we all have tops from the same tree). Here is a chart setting out the density and stiffness of this wood in comparison with some other woods I've analysed and have built successful guitars from.
I have thinned my top down to 1.80 mm in order to bring its fundamental resonance down to range that works very well with classical guitars.
In the next post we'll work on the top patches and braces.
I thought I would post a few pix of the fixture I use for baking tops for the builders who are new to baking. I usually bake for 1-1.5 hours at 200F, allow to cool in the oven, turn over and repeat. Baking isn't done to dry tops, it is done to bake off (vaporize) any remaining sap or pitch in the wood.